Located on Mexico's largest island, Cozumel, San Gervasio was the island's ancient Maya capital and ceremonial center dedicated to the goddess, Ixchel. She was viewed as the mother of all other gods, along with being the goddess of fertility, childbirth, the moon and rainbows. Women from all over mainland Mesoamerica were expected, sometime during their lifetime, to make the dangerous 12-mile pilgrimage by sea in a dug-out canoe from mainland Mexico to Cozumel to honor her.

Occupied from 100 B.C. through when the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century, San Gervasio was not only a religious center, but a center of trade with salt and honey being its main exports -- at the time, each worth more than gold.

San Gervasio is not the site's original name. It was named in the 1800s after a rancher Gervasio Novelo and his ranch San Gervasio. While the original name is not known for sure, there is some reference at another ruin site that the actual name might have been "Tan Tun" which means "over rock".

Touring San Gervasio today

Today, as you enter walk on the ancient road called a sacbe, under the graceful arch and into the site, you see the excavated limestone plazas, temples, stepped platforms, stelae and bias-reliefs.

Covering three square kilometers, San Gervasio is divided into four main groups: the "Las Manitas" and "Chichan Nah," the Central Plaza structures, the "Murcielagos" structure, and "El Ramonal", which is closed to the public. The other three groups are open.

One must-see temple is "Las Manitas" or The Temple of the Hands. With small red handprints all over its alter, one can't help but wonder what the meaning of the handprints is. In the central plaza are the important temples -- a cluster of nine buildings forming an enclosed patio. The "Murcielagos" or Round House is unusual due to its two rounded platforms, rounded altar and location in the middle of the ruins. As with most of the structures within San Gervasio, plaques clearly describe each structure in Maya, Spanish, and English.

While visiting San Gervasio, bring with you, besides your curiosity and sense of adventure, sunscreen, a hat, and either a poncho, rain jacket or umbrella as it can rain anytime while in the tropics. On site there are bilingual guides for hire, a snack bar, bookstore, handicraft stores, parking and bathrooms. Cold water can be purchased at the snack bar.

While visiting Cozumel, take time to enjoy peaceful lush jungle setting dedicated to the Mayan goddess Ixchel -- she of the rainbows. Don't step on the iguanas!

If you go

Hours of Operation: Daily 7A.M. to 4P.M.

Admission Fee: US$5; children under 11 are free.

Directions: From San Miguel, take cross-island road (follow signs to airport) east to San Gervasio access road. Turn left and follow road 7 km (4.5 mi).