My favorite smaller Florence
museums seem to never have lines, are a relative bargain, and are as steeped in
Medieval and Renaissance art history as are the two "biggies." Best,
travelers don't need to order tickets while still planning their Italian
vacation. As long as they're open, you can
always walk right into any of these art museums.
Museo Nazionale del Bargello
Now, the Accademia and Uffizi are the two top museums in Florence, but I just love
the Bargello as well. The lines aren't nearly as long, since it's not on
everyone's travel check list. The Bargello has many, many Renaissance era
sculptures, including works by Michelangelo, and Donatello. Donatello's David
is here; made in 1430, it predates Michelangelo's most famous masterpiece by
nearly 75 years. The Bargello museum has different external architecture than a
tourist may expect: It's housed in the 13th century jail and police
headquarters, and looks a bit intimidating. Art history fans will appreciate
watching the evolution of sculpture from late Gothic to Renaissance styles.
Museo degli Argenti
This is the Medici Treasury. The
Medicis were a prominent philanthropic family throughout much of Florence's history (with
their share of intrigue as well). The Argenti is home to the Medici family's
enormous collection of jewelry, clocks, vases and more. It's a lot of fancy
stuff, and the museum rooms are themselves works of art; 17th century frescoes
decorate the walls. I really enjoyed seeing all those cameos and necklaces,
imagining them being worn by member of a family so important to the progression
of Renaissance ideals. The artisan stone vases are equally impressive.
Museo dell'Opera del Duomo
The museum
of Il Duomo is quiet and uncrowded,
which I found surprising because every trip to Florence includes at LEAST an external tour
of the Duomo itself. Leisure travel to Florence
often turns into an art history tour, and when one becomes acquainted with the
history that went into the architecture of the Duomo, a visit to this museum
really completes the experience. What can I say? I love the Museo dell'Opera
del Duomo. It's chock full of sculptures that were once in the Duomo, including
works be Michelangelo, Donatello and di Cambio. The sweep of history is really
felt here - as well as most of historic Italy, of course. The museum was
once home to storage for the nearby workshops of all the architects and artists
involved in the construction of the Duomo. I rounded a corner, and without
prior knowledge found myself face-to-face with Michelangelo's second Pieta.
Nicodemus' expression is so sad - and it's believed to be a self-portrait of
Michelangelo himself. That's a moment I'll never forget.
Galleria Palatina & the Appartamenti Monumentali
This
is the most important of the several museums housed in Palazzo Pitti. It's unbelievably
ornate, with frescoed walls, damask covered walls, elaborately painted
ceilings, etc. The wealth of the Medici family is really on display in this
museum. The Medicis had apartments here, purchased from the Pitti family when
the latter went bankrupt. There are major works of art in the Palatina as well;
masterpieces by Caravaggio, Rubens, Titian, Raphael and other great masters
adorn the walls.
Museo Archeologico & Museo di Storia della Scienza
I didn't get a chance to visit the archaeological museum in Florence, unfortunately,
but I understand it has a collection of Egyptian artifacts that rivals
that of the Met in NYC. Further, the Museo di Storia della Scienza
has displays that show how the Renaissance era was as important for the
advancement of science as it was for art (Galileo's first telescopes
are here).
There are even more museums in Florence than I've listed, or seen.
These museums are nearly always quiet and have no lines since -- as
previously mentioned -- all the leisure travelers seem to make sure they see the Accademia and Uffizi. It's a shame so many visitors miss awe-inspiring, less famous museums such as those of the Duomo, Argenti and Bargello. In any other city, they would be the major draw.